Gowns by adrian biography
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The New Adrian Biography is a Must-Have for Fans
Updated: May 12, 2020
If you’re a devoted fan of costume design and classic film, chances are you harbor a tinge of frustration that the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences didn’t add the Best Costume Design category to its annual awards ceremony until 1948.
Consider all the incredible work that preceded this long-overdue recognition: Orry-Kelly couldn’t be nominated for Bette Davis’s scandalous red gown in 1938’s Jezebel, while Travis Banton’s designs for Marlene Dietrich in 1932’s Shanghai Express also never received an official nod. And surely Walter Plunkett would have been the odds-on favorite in 1939, adding to the eight Oscar wins (a record setter at the time) for Gone With the Wind?
Not to be overlooked, of course, is Gilbert Adrian, the extraordinary costume designer who defined glamour at MGM between 1928 and 1941, and who continues to be celebrated among fans of classic films, not only for his artistry, but also his incredible versatility. From the bias-cut gowns he designed for Jean Harlow in 1933’s Dinner at Eight to the opulent 18th-century Versailles fashions he conceptualized for 1938’s Marie Antoinette, it was clear that while Adrian excelled at period costumes, his mod
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The beginnings at MGM
Hollywood years
A Star rises
Born in Connecticut in 1903, Gilbert Adrian was exposed to the fine arts of fashion from a young age by his parents who ran a successful millinery business. Adrian’s passion came alive as he studied costume design at the Parson’s New York School for Fine And Applied Art in New York City, ultimately transferring to Parson’s Paris branch to be closer to Parisian style and couture. While in Paris, he was noticed for his talent, and as a result, returned to New York to design for Irving Berlin’s “Music Box Revue” on Broadway.
Adrian’s first big break for costume design for the movies happened in 1925 in the first MGM film of Mae Murray, “The Merry Widow”. Following that, he started working with Cecil B. DeMille, and in 1928, they both moved to MGM, where Adrian remained at the studio until 1942. At MGM, Adrian meets his first muse, Greta Garbo, whom he transformed into a goddess of glamour adulated by women worldwide. Adrian dressed and transfigured the constellation of all their stars including Katharine Hepburn, Joan Crawford, Norma Shearer, Judy Garland and many others for some of their most memorable film roles.